Friday, December 19, 2008
Monday, May 19, 2008
Suspension tech and tunning
Ok so at a GTO forum i saw a post regarding GTO suspension so i figured i would write a post here and then i will always have it for a reference.
Remember your car only effects how to tune the suspension by its suspension design. Here the information is endless, as cars were produced technology allowed suspension design to be improved upon over and over again, with that said it is up to you to find your adjustment limitations.
Here is what i can tell you.
Struts/shocks- The terms to know here are Bump,rebound,dampening. In any situation these are the things that control your ride.
Bump- This is the short compression stroke (like hitting a bump or pot hole)
Rebound- This is the rate at which the stroke returns to full length and how quickly it does it.
dampening- This is how the shock/strut compresses to compensate for weight transfer or force being applied at any corner.
With this info now you know what a true competition strut offers, most aftermarket and factory part manufacturers just find a balance and sell that rather then give this kind of adjustability to your every day Joe. If you feal like you need the best be ready to pay handsomely for some external reservoir struts or competition use shocks.
Now for springs/coilovers and ride height info
Springs- These offer no adjust ability and are generally just calculated from the manufacturer for weight and ride height. Generally springs are measured in weight and some of the better manufacturers will have diff rent spring rates for you to choose from. This is the best option when you are talking about installing new springs.
Coilovers- This is the ultimate option, it will give you ride height adjust ability as well as an infinite number of spring rates. These systems are generally also adjustable for dampening. Be aware of sleeve over coil overs, these systems allow for putting together a cheap option that allows for the same benefit as a true coil over at a fraction of the price. Sleeve over designs have been known to fail.
Ride height- There is alot of discussion over which height is right and the answer is truly the appropriate height for your situation. Keep in mind that the lower your ride height the better your car SHOULD handle. I said should only because if your car is too low your suspension cant work properly. Your car was built with limitations and was never meant to be a half inch off the ground. Without going into a huge fillabuster here i will tell you within reason any height is right as long as you have done your homework on the struts/springs or coil overs. No a one inch drop wont handle as well as a two or maybe a 2.5 inch drop. A three inch drop though may actually damage your suspension angle's and inhibit you from reaching your maximum potential. So pick a height that works with your overall expectations. If your goal is the ragged edge be ready for serious R&D.
Now for the most important thing
Corner weighting- If you ever hear of someone wanting to put a different motor in a car then what it came with immediately the topic of a faulty suspension comes up. The arguers are generally those who dont know about suspension tuning. These people almost always see coil overs as simply a dampening adjustable and ride height adjustable tool. However the true purpose is much greater then that. Corner weighting is taking a car with driver in it and putting a scale under each tire, with the weights given you can see where the weight of your car is being ditributed. The goal is to make the left front and right rear weights add up to the same amount as the right front and left rear. This puts the center of weight in the center of the car. It is also how people tune there cars for larger motors or after loosing weight. If you add weight to a car no matter were it is it will change the suspension tuning.
Tuning with a corner weighted car
If you have a balanced car this is a neutral situation. Meaning your weight is balanced neutrally. However if under real world driving conditions the car is Pushing or overstearing then you can tune this with ride height. Lowering the front can make the car rotate better or allows for more of an overstear situation. In this tuning area i will leave it up to you to find your own results. Once balanced many things can be done with your ride height (this will require more corner weighting) or with strut or shock tuning in dampening,bump, and rebound. These options are also present in coil overs. If you are at a neutral balance you may also mess with your sway bars, remember that more front bar adds push and more rear bar adds over steer.
Camber, caster, and toe
Camber- This is the angle the tires contact patch is at. For best turning results you want the patch to be flat when the cars weight is being transferred to it. Look at a drifters camber they are always using lots of rear camber so that they can have a large contact patch when there cars are flat out sideways. Drag racers here is my hint set your camber with a loaded car for best launches. You must raise the front end for front wheel drives and load the back for rear wheel drives. If i give you More you will know all my secrets.
Caster- Here my knowledge is vague but i know that an improper caster can lead to a very vague feeling in steering response.
Toe- You really want your toe to be pointing out this is the angle on the tire imagine seeing your two front tires the same as looking at your feet when you are standing and you point your toes to the side. That is a toed out situation. It makes perfect sense when you think about a car wanting to turn in. For drag racing this isnt something you want as it will slow you down a slight bit.
Last but not least i will leave you with the following
Bushings- Here the harder the better but not so hard that they are uncomfortable. Keep in mind your goals
Spherical bushings- you want these over ball joints where ever possible, since ball joint allow for play in your suspension geometry.
I hope this helps but this is mainly just so you can know where your roject stands so you can apropriatly order the parts you need.
Remember your car only effects how to tune the suspension by its suspension design. Here the information is endless, as cars were produced technology allowed suspension design to be improved upon over and over again, with that said it is up to you to find your adjustment limitations.
Here is what i can tell you.
Struts/shocks- The terms to know here are Bump,rebound,dampening. In any situation these are the things that control your ride.
Bump- This is the short compression stroke (like hitting a bump or pot hole)
Rebound- This is the rate at which the stroke returns to full length and how quickly it does it.
dampening- This is how the shock/strut compresses to compensate for weight transfer or force being applied at any corner.
With this info now you know what a true competition strut offers, most aftermarket and factory part manufacturers just find a balance and sell that rather then give this kind of adjustability to your every day Joe. If you feal like you need the best be ready to pay handsomely for some external reservoir struts or competition use shocks.
Now for springs/coilovers and ride height info
Springs- These offer no adjust ability and are generally just calculated from the manufacturer for weight and ride height. Generally springs are measured in weight and some of the better manufacturers will have diff rent spring rates for you to choose from. This is the best option when you are talking about installing new springs.
Coilovers- This is the ultimate option, it will give you ride height adjust ability as well as an infinite number of spring rates. These systems are generally also adjustable for dampening. Be aware of sleeve over coil overs, these systems allow for putting together a cheap option that allows for the same benefit as a true coil over at a fraction of the price. Sleeve over designs have been known to fail.
Ride height- There is alot of discussion over which height is right and the answer is truly the appropriate height for your situation. Keep in mind that the lower your ride height the better your car SHOULD handle. I said should only because if your car is too low your suspension cant work properly. Your car was built with limitations and was never meant to be a half inch off the ground. Without going into a huge fillabuster here i will tell you within reason any height is right as long as you have done your homework on the struts/springs or coil overs. No a one inch drop wont handle as well as a two or maybe a 2.5 inch drop. A three inch drop though may actually damage your suspension angle's and inhibit you from reaching your maximum potential. So pick a height that works with your overall expectations. If your goal is the ragged edge be ready for serious R&D.
Now for the most important thing
Corner weighting- If you ever hear of someone wanting to put a different motor in a car then what it came with immediately the topic of a faulty suspension comes up. The arguers are generally those who dont know about suspension tuning. These people almost always see coil overs as simply a dampening adjustable and ride height adjustable tool. However the true purpose is much greater then that. Corner weighting is taking a car with driver in it and putting a scale under each tire, with the weights given you can see where the weight of your car is being ditributed. The goal is to make the left front and right rear weights add up to the same amount as the right front and left rear. This puts the center of weight in the center of the car. It is also how people tune there cars for larger motors or after loosing weight. If you add weight to a car no matter were it is it will change the suspension tuning.
Tuning with a corner weighted car
If you have a balanced car this is a neutral situation. Meaning your weight is balanced neutrally. However if under real world driving conditions the car is Pushing or overstearing then you can tune this with ride height. Lowering the front can make the car rotate better or allows for more of an overstear situation. In this tuning area i will leave it up to you to find your own results. Once balanced many things can be done with your ride height (this will require more corner weighting) or with strut or shock tuning in dampening,bump, and rebound. These options are also present in coil overs. If you are at a neutral balance you may also mess with your sway bars, remember that more front bar adds push and more rear bar adds over steer.
Camber, caster, and toe
Camber- This is the angle the tires contact patch is at. For best turning results you want the patch to be flat when the cars weight is being transferred to it. Look at a drifters camber they are always using lots of rear camber so that they can have a large contact patch when there cars are flat out sideways. Drag racers here is my hint set your camber with a loaded car for best launches. You must raise the front end for front wheel drives and load the back for rear wheel drives. If i give you More you will know all my secrets.
Caster- Here my knowledge is vague but i know that an improper caster can lead to a very vague feeling in steering response.
Toe- You really want your toe to be pointing out this is the angle on the tire imagine seeing your two front tires the same as looking at your feet when you are standing and you point your toes to the side. That is a toed out situation. It makes perfect sense when you think about a car wanting to turn in. For drag racing this isnt something you want as it will slow you down a slight bit.
Last but not least i will leave you with the following
Bushings- Here the harder the better but not so hard that they are uncomfortable. Keep in mind your goals
Spherical bushings- you want these over ball joints where ever possible, since ball joint allow for play in your suspension geometry.
I hope this helps but this is mainly just so you can know where your roject stands so you can apropriatly order the parts you need.
Monday, March 17, 2008
4 bolt main chevy block castings
So i have been officially challenged. My friend is going to build an electric three wheeler. The potential for him to be very fast is there. Whether or not he makes it to that point is the question. If he does my 300zx V-8 beast may have a challenger. His goal is to beat me.
So i am going to make sure i build a small block chevy that can support diffrent nitrous levels. I couldn't stand the idea of loosing to an electric car, so ill build a 400hp mild motor with a nitrous cam that can support multiple levels of nitrous.
The first step is get my hands on a SBC long block with a two bolt main that I can get splayed for strength.
So i am going to post my info on what castings to look for in the junk yard. Hope this helps some one.
So i am going to make sure i build a small block chevy that can support diffrent nitrous levels. I couldn't stand the idea of loosing to an electric car, so ill build a 400hp mild motor with a nitrous cam that can support multiple levels of nitrous.
The first step is get my hands on a SBC long block with a two bolt main that I can get splayed for strength.
So i am going to post my info on what castings to look for in the junk yard. Hope this helps some one.
Thursday, March 6, 2008
CRX update...
This is the brand new JDM VTEC valve cover on my friend cory johanson's CRX with a JDM B16A.
This is the upper exhaust manifold after we hit it with a couple coats of primer and a high gloss, high heat black.
The engine bay of the CRX, we are almost ready to get out to the track.
Here is the motor opened up while we replace the oil pump, water pump,timing belt and tensioner. Neat looking if you ask me.
We hope to make it out to the Texas mile this year to get my friends feet wet in the amature racing world. I will hopefully be there in something but if that plan fails ill just setup his car. All we have to do now is stick a cage in and a few bushings and ball joints that we have but havnt installed yet.
This is the upper exhaust manifold after we hit it with a couple coats of primer and a high gloss, high heat black.
The engine bay of the CRX, we are almost ready to get out to the track.
Here is the motor opened up while we replace the oil pump, water pump,timing belt and tensioner. Neat looking if you ask me.
We hope to make it out to the Texas mile this year to get my friends feet wet in the amature racing world. I will hopefully be there in something but if that plan fails ill just setup his car. All we have to do now is stick a cage in and a few bushings and ball joints that we have but havnt installed yet.
Z32 300zx intro...
So here is my next project, as if i don't already have enough.
What it needs.
New motor since the old one seized.
Two front seats since the originals are missing.
Rear window glass.
Suspension and breaks need to be given some TLC as well.
It might end up a V-8 bracket racer or it might end up a 650hp twin turbo track day car. The deal was just to good to let go.
Bracket racer.
Small block Chevy carburated.
stock rear end.
Automatic 700R4 racing tranny.
Track day car.
VG30DETT twin turbo motor W/ forged internals and GT28RS turbos.
5spd tranny.
twin turbo hardened rear end.
Ahh, i cant wait. Unfortunately i have many other projects to work on right now.
Monday, January 28, 2008
turbo calculations
Since i have so many projects all at the same time it has taken me a while to get this done.
Here are stock figures
150hp at the crank redline at 5600rpm
Here they are. This is at 10lb's of boost
PR system 1.612 (This is the number on the left side of the map)
Tout actual 199 degrees F
Denstiy ratio 1.514 (at sea level)
VFR actual 201.254cfm
MFR turbo 22.213lb
Horsepower at crank 222.13hp
MFR points plotted in lb/min These are the numbers at the bottom of the compressor chart.
5600 rpm 22.024 (redline rpm I.E. shift point)
4950 rpm 18.312 (halfway point between full coost and redline)
2300 rpm 8.3000 (expected full boost)
1500 rpm 2.8800
(halfway point between idle and full boost, estimated 5lbs of boost)
To run my injectors at this horsepower at the aproriate 85% duty cycle i need
412cc injectors.
So there you guys go plot the points and let me know if you see a mistake.
Here are stock figures
150hp at the crank redline at 5600rpm
Here they are. This is at 10lb's of boost
PR system 1.612 (This is the number on the left side of the map)
Tout actual 199 degrees F
Denstiy ratio 1.514 (at sea level)
VFR actual 201.254cfm
MFR turbo 22.213lb
Horsepower at crank 222.13hp
MFR points plotted in lb/min These are the numbers at the bottom of the compressor chart.
5600 rpm 22.024 (redline rpm I.E. shift point)
4950 rpm 18.312 (halfway point between full coost and redline)
2300 rpm 8.3000 (expected full boost)
1500 rpm 2.8800
(halfway point between idle and full boost, estimated 5lbs of boost)
To run my injectors at this horsepower at the aproriate 85% duty cycle i need
412cc injectors.
So there you guys go plot the points and let me know if you see a mistake.
Thursday, January 10, 2008
240sx knock sensor and oil press sensor replacment
So since my turbo dreams seem to keep me up later and later at night i got inspired to further the progress on my 240sx turbo project. I installed my new knock sensor and oil pressure sending unit. The knock sensor was making a check engine code fault and when your ecu is in a safety mode (when the check engine light is on) you cant tune the car very well. Realizing this i went to fix my problem here is a quick write up.
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove intake tube from manifold
3. Remove upper radiator hose from the engine
4. Remove the smaller water hose that runs in the middle of the upper and lower manifold halves and heads strait to the back of the manifold. If you cant get your hands in their then save your self the time and just remove the intake manifold.
5. If you can fit your hand in between the upper and lower manifold halves then you can probably get the knock sensor out and in without removing the manifold.(getting it back in is the trick)
6. Remember if you remove a fuel line it will be pressurized. I removed the one in between the middle upper manifold runners.
7. Have a friend hold the bolt on the sensor once it gets close to the mounting hole with a magnet, squeeze your hand into the manifold and thread the bolt so you can get a ratchet on it to tighten it up.
8. Remember a knock sensor must be tightened to spec 15-20 ft lbs
9. Then just put it all back together.
The oil pressure sensor was to get my freaking car to stop puking oil and so far it seems successful. The installation here is self explanatory. The only thing is since i was already leaking oil i added plumbers tape to the threads so it would create an extra Tight seal.
So thats it for now.
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove intake tube from manifold
3. Remove upper radiator hose from the engine
4. Remove the smaller water hose that runs in the middle of the upper and lower manifold halves and heads strait to the back of the manifold. If you cant get your hands in their then save your self the time and just remove the intake manifold.
5. If you can fit your hand in between the upper and lower manifold halves then you can probably get the knock sensor out and in without removing the manifold.(getting it back in is the trick)
6. Remember if you remove a fuel line it will be pressurized. I removed the one in between the middle upper manifold runners.
7. Have a friend hold the bolt on the sensor once it gets close to the mounting hole with a magnet, squeeze your hand into the manifold and thread the bolt so you can get a ratchet on it to tighten it up.
8. Remember a knock sensor must be tightened to spec 15-20 ft lbs
9. Then just put it all back together.
The oil pressure sensor was to get my freaking car to stop puking oil and so far it seems successful. The installation here is self explanatory. The only thing is since i was already leaking oil i added plumbers tape to the threads so it would create an extra Tight seal.
So thats it for now.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
GTO update Jan 2008
Ok well after some time being neglected here are some pics of my GTO. I have been working on my other projects for the last few months and it is time to get back to work on our beast.
Here is how she sits now.
Here is our 67 catalina 389 with a GM three 2 barrel carb manifold and two of the three carbs. Keep in mind we still ahvnt started the rebuild on these parts.
Here are some pics of our 455 install in process and our front drum to disk conversion. Both of these steps are far from completed, dont mind the rusty bits they are just for the fiting process.
This is the brake swap in progress
Here is a before picture.
Our 455 sits like this at the moment awaiting a rubber raiser and a four barrel manifold with 950 cfm carb. Dont mind the valve covers.
Here is how she sits now.
Here is our 67 catalina 389 with a GM three 2 barrel carb manifold and two of the three carbs. Keep in mind we still ahvnt started the rebuild on these parts.
Here are some pics of our 455 install in process and our front drum to disk conversion. Both of these steps are far from completed, dont mind the rusty bits they are just for the fiting process.
This is the brake swap in progress
Here is a before picture.
Our 455 sits like this at the moment awaiting a rubber raiser and a four barrel manifold with 950 cfm carb. Dont mind the valve covers.
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Mike's 10 second Camaro
Here's the specs on my friend Mike Wheeler's
1986 Chevy Camaro
2925lbs (with driver)
Best times
1/4 mile 10.54 @ 129mph
1/8 mile 6.67 @ 102mph
Engine specs
-408ci SBC 4 bolt main 517 block
-1/2 fill hard block
-Dart iron eagle heads
-11.0 to 1 compression ratio
-Lunati solid roller cam .685 lift
-Comp cams pro roller rocker arms
Trans specs
-Power glide trans
-Pro tree trans brake
-Harry Hewitt 1.76 gear set
Body,fram,and suspension mods
-Harwood fiberglass hood and scoop
-10 point roll cage
-S&W back half,ladder bars and coil overs
-narrowed 12 bolt chevy rear end w/spool
-Aluminum sheet metal floors
Rear end
-4.56 Pro gears
-Summer bros axles
-36" tubes
Fuel supply
-5 gallon fuel cell
-Holley blue fuel pump
-Fram hp fuel filter
Misc
-Weld pro star wheels
-Rear tires 32x15x15 M/T slicks
-Front tires 15x3.5 M/T front runners
-Full msd ignition
-Digital delay ctc delay box
-Dedenbear throttle stop
Owned and raced by Mike Wheeler, Pres WheelerRacing enterprises San Antonio,TX
As a purpose built bracket racer this car does very well and even though it is still a fairly new project for Mike he has already proven to have great potential in the upcoming season's. Best of luck to you mike, ill hopefully be their in my GTO soon.
Saturday, December 22, 2007
1990 Honda CRX
This car was my project vehicle a few years ago, it was from 2004-2006 that the following upgrades went into this machine.
*Flik Blast 15" rims with Falken Azenis tires(stolen before the sale of the car)
*JDM B16A motor/tranny swap
*Clutch master stg 3 clutch with 8lb flywheel
*Edelbrock 70mm throttle body
* 3 inch exhaust with top speed canister, it was moved to the opposite side of the car then the factory position for a better strait through design. (more HP)
*short ram intake
*msd plug wires with bosch platinum plugs
* type r (knock off) racing seat
*VIS carbon fiber hood
Now it has the following upgrades from its new owner. (my friend Cory Johansen, instillation of the new parts was a joint effort between us.)
*better shift linkage
*short throw shifter
*KYB four way adj struts
*max speed sleeve over coil overs
*energy suspension bushings
*PBR metal master front brake pads with Castrol GT-LMA brake fluid
*correct JDM valve cover
We also just installed a new timing belt,tensioner, oil pump, and water pump. The next few small steps will be the last steps before a full test of the cars capability's as a true street/track car.
NEXT STEPS
*15" Rims with 205 or 225 sticky tires
*Sway bars
*Racing Axles
Friday, December 21, 2007
240sx turbo project
So i have started accumulating the parts necessary for turbocharging the stock KA24DE in my 240sx. Here is a list of the parts and their cost so far.
1. TB022 garrett turbo, this turbo is off the twin turbo nissan 300zx. It is quick spooling and will be just barely usable at 8psi, if im lucky ill get 10psi out of it. I want to use it so i can get a better understanding of fuel tuning and fabrication before moving up in power.
2. A volvo side mount intercooler, this thing looks awesome. I can tell it will be very efficient, this will help me minimize pressure loss through the intercooler.
3. A first gen DSM (diamond star motors) blow off valve. These things can handle good amounts of boost without leaking, especially if you compress the spring a little more.
So far my total amount spent is $147.50 w/ shipping
1. TB022 garrett turbo, this turbo is off the twin turbo nissan 300zx. It is quick spooling and will be just barely usable at 8psi, if im lucky ill get 10psi out of it. I want to use it so i can get a better understanding of fuel tuning and fabrication before moving up in power.
2. A volvo side mount intercooler, this thing looks awesome. I can tell it will be very efficient, this will help me minimize pressure loss through the intercooler.
3. A first gen DSM (diamond star motors) blow off valve. These things can handle good amounts of boost without leaking, especially if you compress the spring a little more.
So far my total amount spent is $147.50 w/ shipping
240sx interior
So i just installed these boots from redline racing. I think they realy help the look of the interior, eventually it will all be red stich but till then I had to start somewhere.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
92 Accord
So the next car im going to mention is very special to me. It belonged to a good friend of mine Eric Ruder. He passed away in his junior year of high school. I always discussed the build up of this car with him. He took my suggestions and made this car. It was a picture of his imagination and probably one of his best accomplishments, as a momento to him and his legacy i have kept the car looking as close to what he had built as possible. Please mind your comments, this car has alot of sentimental meaning to me.
This car has been through a crazy build up, It includes 3 motors and an auto to Manuel conversion.
*sleeve over coil overs
*adjustable front camber
*Fsudo exhaust
*Ractive header
*AEM intake
*AEM cam gears
*AEM true power pully's
*Clutch master stg 1 clutch
*Catco hi-flow catalytic converter
*konig gram light rims
*custom graphics by DPS motor sports in Oklahoma city (hope you guys are doing well)
As i mentioned this car is on its third motor
1st motor- hydro locked because of a huge puddle and a low intake with no breather higher up on the intake tube.
2nd motor was from a salvage yard and the head had a clogged oil passage that ended up burning up a cam bearing and making the cam gear snap off at the timing belt. Essentially trashing the head.
Now the third motor feels the strongest out of them all but i don't drive it much right now so with more seat time ho knows what would break. HAHA
I want to give a big thanks to the entire ruder family, thank you all so much. You have helped me a great deal. This car is a blessing to me and i will cherish it forever.
This car has been through a crazy build up, It includes 3 motors and an auto to Manuel conversion.
*sleeve over coil overs
*adjustable front camber
*Fsudo exhaust
*Ractive header
*AEM intake
*AEM cam gears
*AEM true power pully's
*Clutch master stg 1 clutch
*Catco hi-flow catalytic converter
*konig gram light rims
*custom graphics by DPS motor sports in Oklahoma city (hope you guys are doing well)
As i mentioned this car is on its third motor
1st motor- hydro locked because of a huge puddle and a low intake with no breather higher up on the intake tube.
2nd motor was from a salvage yard and the head had a clogged oil passage that ended up burning up a cam bearing and making the cam gear snap off at the timing belt. Essentially trashing the head.
Now the third motor feels the strongest out of them all but i don't drive it much right now so with more seat time ho knows what would break. HAHA
I want to give a big thanks to the entire ruder family, thank you all so much. You have helped me a great deal. This car is a blessing to me and i will cherish it forever.
Monday, December 3, 2007
1965, Pontiac GTO
This is our (my dad and me) current crazy build, this thing is going to be nasty. Lots of torque horrible gas mileage and the ability to install a perma-grin on anyone's face.
engine specs on our GTO motor.
455Ci 1970 Pontiac V-8.
The engine was balanced and blue printed; the rods were shot penned, lightened, and polished as well as heat treated.
(all engine work done by T&P performance in San Antonio TX)
Block
59, Pontiac rods
Bored .060 over
12.5:1 C.R.
Lightened crank
lunati Cam shaft (P256-263-108)
ARP rod bolts
Head
Competition valve job
intake valve 2.11 exhaust valve 1.77
Drive train
we are running an M21 tranny with a 12 bolt BOP (Buick,Olds,Pontiac) rear end. I want to say our rear end is a 3.08 but i might be wrong ill have to double check the casting numbers again.
This is just to get her running we will be upgrading these parts in the future. Im interested in trying a 4 spd super muncie tranny, iv heard their capable of 600whp.
Here our some estimations for our 3,000 pound machine
500whp (easily)
550 lb/ft of torque (easily)
12.5 second quarter mile on street tires (not a street slick but full radials, also with full interior)
Later down the line ill have more info on this build we have alot of options right now and im in the process of sourcing parts.
Should be something along the lines of
*suspension upgrade's
*front drum to disk conversion
*also we will be addresing a bunch of issues ill keep you guys posted
For now lets say were figuring out how to raise the motor so the headers will clear, installing and cleaning all parts needed for fuel delivery, and figuring out how we want to do the roll cage on this car.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
240sx project
So im going to give you some info on one of our project vehicals.
This is my 1998 Nissan 240sx. This car i found in a parts yard by luck. I guess you could say she found me. I bought her for a hundred over blue book and haven't looked back. After some trouble with the title and trouble keeping the rear tires in good condition she sits ready for her next major installment of parts.
Here is the list of installed parts as of now
*F1 stage three clutch - (worst clutch ever) I wish i would have never bought this piece of junk. I cant wait to get my RPS or Exedy clutch.
*Prolite racing chromoly flywheel 16lbs - got this with teh clutch but it seems to be ok.
*Tanaka (extremly) solid polyurethane bushings - for the rear subframe, tried to do a cheap fix and i got what i paid for. The bushings squeek but it is minimal.
*Prothaine front tension rod bushings - God these things are solid.
*Tokico blue hp struts w/ matched tokico springs 2.0/1.8 inch drop front/rear
*PBR metal master pads with Castrol GT-LMA fluid (exceeds dot 4 and 5) I love this stuff, guaranted not to boil the fluid on a street setup.
*I also just bought a vibrant performance muffler that sounds great and looks amazing, i had it installed with 2.25 inch piping. I retained the factory look with more attitude, but the tone is still very mellow till WOT.
STAGES TO COME
*T-3 turbo kit with low boost 260whp high boost 350whp on a stock block with my own fuel and ignition tuning.(if she holds together)
*four piston front brakes and VLSD as well as five lug conversion from a Z32 (second gen 300ZX) that just so happens to be right next door.(gotta love neighbors with two many parts cars. Thanks Mr. Gene
*sway bars,interior work,sound system,strut bars, misc odds and ends.
This is my 1998 Nissan 240sx. This car i found in a parts yard by luck. I guess you could say she found me. I bought her for a hundred over blue book and haven't looked back. After some trouble with the title and trouble keeping the rear tires in good condition she sits ready for her next major installment of parts.
Here is the list of installed parts as of now
*F1 stage three clutch - (worst clutch ever) I wish i would have never bought this piece of junk. I cant wait to get my RPS or Exedy clutch.
*Prolite racing chromoly flywheel 16lbs - got this with teh clutch but it seems to be ok.
*Tanaka (extremly) solid polyurethane bushings - for the rear subframe, tried to do a cheap fix and i got what i paid for. The bushings squeek but it is minimal.
*Prothaine front tension rod bushings - God these things are solid.
*Tokico blue hp struts w/ matched tokico springs 2.0/1.8 inch drop front/rear
*PBR metal master pads with Castrol GT-LMA fluid (exceeds dot 4 and 5) I love this stuff, guaranted not to boil the fluid on a street setup.
*I also just bought a vibrant performance muffler that sounds great and looks amazing, i had it installed with 2.25 inch piping. I retained the factory look with more attitude, but the tone is still very mellow till WOT.
STAGES TO COME
*T-3 turbo kit with low boost 260whp high boost 350whp on a stock block with my own fuel and ignition tuning.(if she holds together)
*four piston front brakes and VLSD as well as five lug conversion from a Z32 (second gen 300ZX) that just so happens to be right next door.(gotta love neighbors with two many parts cars. Thanks Mr. Gene
*sway bars,interior work,sound system,strut bars, misc odds and ends.
the start
So i should introduce my self. I have taken part in various builds for the past five or six years, from Honda's to Chevy's from one make builds to Frankenstein projects that make Hoosier's scream in their sleep. My ultimate goal with any project can differ but usually i end up with a decent final product.
Enjoy.
Here i am with the only thing in my life im affraid of.
Enjoy.
Here i am with the only thing in my life im affraid of.
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